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But most importantly, this veteran of the Vargas restaurant group knows how to give his food a generosity of Creole flavors with subtle hints of seasonal creativity, from the spice-dusted shrimp over cheesy grits, to zesty okra stew, crispy vegan fritters of black-eyed peas over sautéed eggplant, tender ribs and a meaty crab cake with corn maque choux.The cash-only Jenkintown original is an intimate 26-seat BYOB addition to the neighborhood, with a decadent mac and cheese not to be missed.Their new spot is a big contemporary dining room with soaring 24-foot ceilings and a 50-seat deck overlooking the valley.And despite the fancy new setting (with wine lockers even! And the expansive menu still has an almost diner-esque reach with a something-for-everyone approach, ranging from wood-fired pizzas (try the Palermo) to pastas and simply cooked fresh fish.The cocktails also are impressive (try the brandied riff on an Old Fashioned).

It is pure coincidence my favorite happens to be the grilled pork meatball hoagie called … (Really) The Ambler branch has the added draw of Korean fried chicken.

F&M seems to have lost much interest in being a dining destination, though, with a pub menu that is increasingly limited, inconsistently executed, and served by a young staff that simply didn't seem to care that our meal was off.

This take-out shack with patio tables serving fusion take on classic Vietnamese bánh mi hoagies is perhaps an unlikely concept from TV celeb chef Chad Rosenthal, who’s best known for American barbecue at Ambler’s Lucky Well.

The double-sized Erdenheim space accepts credit cards but also benefits from a partnership with Cardinal Hollow winery, whose license allows them to also pour local beer and spirits. You’ll need a cold glass of brew to tame Thomas’ version of Nashville hot chicken that’s exclusive to this location.

This buttermilk-fried bird is set over a thick slice of bread smeared with smoked paprika rémoulade and then glazed in the red shine of a chile-Sriracha oil so spicy that one customer needed to take his shirt off.

Perfectly moist clams Casino are scented with bacon. Le’s osso buco is one of the best I’ve had, the huge shank braised to a sublime tenderness over risotto enriched with veal’s natural gravy.

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